Remembering Scotch Block Winery in Halton Hills

Recently, I came across two early tasting notes on a couple of 2002 vintage wines from Scotch Block Winery in Halton Hills, which I am reposting below. After a change of ownership of Andrews Scenic Acres, the winery continues to exist, but these days it is called Andrews Winery. These vintage tasting notes recall the original Scotch Block wines. At the time of this writing, the original Toccalino vineyard no longer exists.

Scotch Block 2002 Halton White

The 2002 Scotch Block Halton White was a unique blend of Cayuga White, Seyval Blanc, Vidal and Auxerrois. It was a truly regional wine, being made with grapes grown on Scotch Block's local vineyard nestled against the backdrop of the Niagara Escarpment. Halton White was clear-straw in colour with a pale greenish glint. It was fresh and citric on the nose, with aromas of ripe pineapple and a touch of white grape jelly. On the palate, the wine was full and textured and had impeccable balance. The acidity was lively and fresh, and there was just a touch of residual sweetness that was not intrusive at all. It was pleasant both as a food wine and as a sipping wine. The warmth of the 13.7% alc./vol. demonstrated the high ripeness of the 2002 vintage. 

Scotch Block 2002 Halton Red

Scotch Block's Halton Red complemented their Halton White. Halton Red was an exciting, truly regional red wine made from Baco Noir, Lucy Kuhlmann and De Chaunac—all planted locally and sourced from the Toccalino vineyard. 12.1% alc. Deep and saturated black-ruby/vermilion. Aromas of tulips and linden flowers gave way to tart red berries, hints of brown sugar and an earthy undertone, all framed by a subtle oak aroma. Tangy acidity was balanced by a substantial, almost glycerolic palate feel and a dusting of tannin. Just a bit of residual sugar was noted. Tasty and full-textured; well-balanced. Long, earthy finish.

2012 Vieni Estates Briganti (Ontario VQA)

I was delighted to recently find this wine on general list in the LCBO. Vieni Estates' Briganti is a three-way blend of Foch, Baco and De Chaunac—at one time, three of the most common red hybrid grapes in Ontario.

You just don't see much innovation in this category of wine anymore. Up to the turn of the millennium, there were quite a few very good varietal Fochs, and even a few varietal De Chaunacs. This release seems to represent something of a rebirth for the genre, and I couldn't be happier. Having tried Vieni's excellent Foch Vintage Reserve last month, I was excited to see this release from the same winery.

The wine is bottled in a smart, screw-top bottle. It pours with a saturated, deep garnet colour that fades to a cherry-garnet hue at the meniscus. Baco Noir seems to lead on the nose, with briny, plummy fruit and some complex rootsy notes that are typical of many wines with V. riparia lineage. On the palate, there is brisk, clean acidity and very good texture; the wine is dry and cleansing. On the mid-palate, I seem to get more of the Foch notes, but in general, no single grape dominates. The finish is dry and clean—this is a wine made for the dinner table. It is well balanced at 12.0% alc./vol.

For stylistic comparison to other wines—think of a brisk northern Italian red like Barbera.

My food pairings would be lasagna, ribs, and pizza. The wine has the acidity and heft to invigorate and refresh the palate.

My only suggestion would be to give this wine some time in oak: even just 6-8 months in American (or Canadian!) oak would be sufficient. Aged this way, it would be very reminiscent of the excellent Harrow Estates Baco that Carlo Negri used to make in the late 1990s.

This Vieni Estates Briganti is a very welcome addition to Ontario's winescape. It is $12.95 on general list in the Ontario VQA section of the LCBO.