tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-52200158581567031132024-03-05T19:22:18.456-05:00Hybrid Wines OnlineA site for the appreciation of hardy grape varieties and their winesPaul Bulashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12529246329390414743noreply@blogger.comBlogger71125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5220015858156703113.post-81505050015722396212023-12-08T21:06:00.003-05:002023-12-08T21:06:07.556-05:00Non-vintage "Brunch" Red Field Blend (Ontario VQA)<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLZZed3IsTxEACeOsNc9RNgaBD7t9NzwkZz8jnIVw1Nngnj4u2G5cgBL5bmLJPggzXc-VNWq4FKyKJgAnfnRSxu_Yw1GwvztpoAcBpduJLRkZiUV7ObYbDkbT-1JMeAbx-orkSDl9YilbpEFgkDDus_YzoPp58jGPsbTSM2rcfVU97ReBNf-yIQLQE80E/s434/20231208_205200.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="434" data-original-width="434" height="205" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLZZed3IsTxEACeOsNc9RNgaBD7t9NzwkZz8jnIVw1Nngnj4u2G5cgBL5bmLJPggzXc-VNWq4FKyKJgAnfnRSxu_Yw1GwvztpoAcBpduJLRkZiUV7ObYbDkbT-1JMeAbx-orkSDl9YilbpEFgkDDus_YzoPp58jGPsbTSM2rcfVU97ReBNf-yIQLQE80E/w205-h205/20231208_205200.png" width="205" /></a></div>In these days of rising wine prices, it was interesting to find this blend. Apparently a non-vintage wine, it retails for only $9.95. The LCBO entry for this product identifies it as a blend of Baco Noir, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Gamay...but the rear label of the bottle I have simply states Baco Noir and Cabernet Franc. Maybe it differs from batch to batch.<p></p><p>13% alc./vol. The colour is a nice, deep, dark-scarlet colour with that typical Baco colouration and magenta meniscus. The nose is all Baco—tart raspberries and a savoury hickory note, with a hint of wood chips wafting out of the glass.</p><p>Tart on the entry, again displaying the Baco front and centre. Cleansing and dry with an acid-driven structure and a zippy acidity on the mid-palate. Not much tannin here at all, so I'm guessing that the proportion of Cab Franc isn't that much.</p><p>The price is right and the quality is fine—though I'm wondering why the producer chose to release this as a non-vintage blend.</p>Paul Bulashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12529246329390414743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5220015858156703113.post-43698749074637041522022-10-23T19:47:00.002-04:002022-10-23T20:01:18.031-04:002020 Henry of Pelham Old Vines Baco Noir (Ontario VQA)<p>One of my long-time favourite Ontario reds, crafted in this reserve version by the Kings of Baco at Henry of Pelham.</p><p>13.5% alc./vol. Particle-cork closure (surprised that wineries are still using this format...why?).</p><p>The wine pours with a beautiful, saturated black/scarlet colour and a neon-magenta meniscus—done as only a hybrid red can do. Lovely to look at. When swirled, that same intense beet-like saturation comes through.</p><p>Big American oak on the nose—lots of fresh lumber and vanillin/coconut oak blasts its way out of the glass, along with classic Baco hints of tart blue plums.</p><p>Tart, bracing entry; cleansing. Good balance, with acidity leading the way. Oaky on the mid-palate, with diminutive tannins. The finish is warm and expansive. </p><p>Normally, this sells for just a few cents under twenty bucks, but it was on sale for two dollars less recently. </p>Paul Bulashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12529246329390414743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5220015858156703113.post-53891633221213905722020-07-04T18:27:00.002-04:002020-07-04T18:28:54.212-04:002019 Henry of Pelham Old Vines Baco Noir (Ontario VQA)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Henry of Pelham has been called the "King of Baco", and rightly so: they planted their first Baco vines in 1984 and have been putting out quality iterations of this varietal wine for decades. Henry of Pelham isn't just another producer of Baco Noir in Ontario: they're really dedicated to this grape variety.<br />
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I enjoy the regular bottling, finding it to be well made, well balanced, and stylistically elegant. The Old Vines version is sold in a tall, heavier bottle, and is closed with a natural (albeit particle) cork enclosure. The regular bottling, by contrast, has been closed with a screw cap for the past few years—a sensible, functional choice.<br />
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The 2019 Old Vines Baco is 13.5% alc./vol. and sells for about $20 at the LCBO. It pours with a gorgeous, saturated, deep-beet-red/purple colour that turns into a neon magenta at the meniscus—a common feature of the <i>V. riparia</i> hybrid reds. The nose is very oaky right off the bat, showing plummy/blackcurrant fruit and juicy acidity that is eager to carry that same fruit along the palate. On the palate, it is invigoratingly tart, zingy, and refreshing—with good mid-palate heft coming from both the tart berries and the oak overlay. Excellent quality. Following this fruit-and-oak crescendo, the aft-palate character of the wine accentuates the oak, which leaves a pleasant spicy finish.Paul Bulashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12529246329390414743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5220015858156703113.post-88469408701056723122020-05-07T22:42:00.000-04:002020-05-07T22:43:40.829-04:002016 Magnotta Dry Vidal, Equus Series (Ontario VQA)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Magnotta's Dry Vidal is a consistently good example of what the Vidal grape can do when vinified in a dry table-wine style. I've been following this wine for the past 20 years!<br />
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12.5% alc./vol. Medium-straw yellow in the glass. Some fine carbonation along the bottom of the glass. Expansive aromas of citrus (lemon skin, mainly), pine/fir buds, a whiff of petroleum (similar to Riesling), and a hint of floral tropical fruit...most often, I get guava on the nose of these Vidal table wines. The empty glass releases a mild but persistent, sweet piney aroma reminiscent of freshly cut pine.<br />
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Electrifyingly crisp acidity; clean, lean and cleansing. Excellent zip. Warming and cleansing on the mid-palate, simultaneously.</div>
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A great wine for seafood, but certainly good in any situation that calls for a crisp and dry white wine.</div>
Paul Bulashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12529246329390414743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5220015858156703113.post-13600711185510012842019-12-14T20:45:00.002-05:002019-12-14T20:45:35.945-05:00Magnotta Trionfo, Equus Series (Baco - Foch - Pinot Noir; Ontario VQA)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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13.2% alc./vol. Intense, saturated dar-garnet colour; not inky, but deep and dense. Lovely bright, lifted black-cherry fruit on the nose; mostly fruit-driven.<br />
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Dry, well balanced, and with excellent structure on the mid-palate. A very good blend!<br />
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Good mid-palate heft, with Pinot Noir's tannins firming up the whole shebang, and the two hybrids' colour saturation providing lovely dark pigmentation.<br />
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$9.95 at the Magnotta retail outlet.Paul Bulashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12529246329390414743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5220015858156703113.post-71018476667787868632019-09-27T23:53:00.001-04:002019-09-27T23:54:51.411-04:002018 Sandbanks Baco Noir (Ontario VQA)This wine can be picked up for $15.95 in the Ontario VQA section of the LCBO.<br />
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Sandbanks is a winery in Prince Edward County, along the northeastern shore of Lake Ontario. I seldom buy the varietal Baco from Sandbanks—the last time I did, it tasted far too sweet for my taste. That said, I made an exception earlier today and it was a good decision.<br />
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Medium-dark, clear garnet in the glass. The wine initially pours with some very fine effervescence along the meniscus; this dissipates with time in the open bottle. Strong aromas of brackish wild black cherry; a typical hint of leafiness and plums, so very characteristic of Ontario Baco. Zippy, clean and lean acidity on the entry, balanced by appropriate residual sugar. Warm and fruity on the mid-palate. A clean and cleansing finish, as one is wont to expect from this varietal wine. Just a hint of smoky, toasted buckwheat and oak on the finish. Thumbs up.Paul Bulashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12529246329390414743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5220015858156703113.post-11382645472389309382018-01-27T18:33:00.000-05:002018-01-27T18:36:51.304-05:002016 Henry of Pelham Old Vines Baco Noir (Ontario VQA)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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After trying this version of Henry of Pelham's Baco last year, I resolved to repeat the experience and to purchase it once again for a detailed tasting.<br />
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Henry of Pelham could be called Ontario's "Baco King". Maybe they already have been?<br />
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The tall bottle is closed with a high-quality natural cork. The wine pours with a dark, saturated black-cherry/magenta colour. Raspberry and plummy fruit, along with signature <i>riparia </i>notes waft about on the nose. The entry is tart, lively and brisk, as befits Baco—and balanced, firm warmth is noted as the wine travels across the mid-palate. A good structure is also evident here.<br />
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This is available as a general-list item at the LCBO, for about $20.<br />
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I preferred this Old Vines version to the family reserve.Paul Bulashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12529246329390414743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5220015858156703113.post-68701727112879797012018-01-19T21:06:00.000-05:002018-01-19T21:06:45.836-05:002016 Inniskillin Baco Noir (Ontario VQA)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This wine initially caught my eye last summer when I spotted it at a Wine Rack store. Baco from Inniskillin? That's a new one. Up to the turn of the millennium, Inniskillin had produced an Old Vines Foch (the very wine that turned me onto red hybrid wines twenty years ago); sadly, production of that wine was discontinued in the early 2000s—a mistake!<br />
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This Baco pours with a dense black-cherry colour that fades to medium-deep magenta at the meniscus. The initial aromas are of blue plums with a slight overlay of peppercorns—classic Baco. The entry is very supple with balanced acidity (the mildest of any Baco I've tasted) and a broad warmth from the 13% alc./vol. On the palate, the acidity remains mild but cleansing, as it works its way to the back of the palate. The finish is short and clean.<br />
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It's a good Baco that retails on general list at the LCBO now as well (limited availability), for $15.95 CAD.<br />
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I still would like to see Inniskillin bring back their Foch!Paul Bulashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12529246329390414743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5220015858156703113.post-75387335699632173492018-01-07T18:41:00.001-05:002020-10-03T11:46:18.490-04:002016 Sandbanks Foch - Baco Noir "Sleeping Giant" (Ontario VQA)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This blend of Foch and Baco has been one of my go-to reds for well over a year now. Sandbanks Estate Winery is located south of Belleville (eastern Lake Ontario, north shore—basically across the lake from Rochester).<br />
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The wine pours with a beautiful, saturated black-cherry/magenta colour. Sweet and herbaceous <i>Vitis riparia</i> aromas are immediately dominant on the nose and are backed up by lively summer raspberry fruit. There's oak here, but it's well integrated and in the background, offering more structural support than overt aromatics—which is fine by me, as the palate benefits from this oak treatment.<br />
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Tart but balanced acidity fans out across the palate, offering a refreshing texture and good warmth from the 12.8% alc./vol. The finish is elegant and a touch spicy from the oak, but in a restrained way.<br />
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Excellent wine and well worth the price (it varies between $18 and $20 at the LCBO depending on time of year).<br />
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One of the best, and a welcome addition to the modern red hybrid winescape.Paul Bulashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12529246329390414743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5220015858156703113.post-11921451997918095722018-01-01T17:32:00.000-05:002018-01-01T17:45:06.103-05:002015 Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Baco Noir<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery is Niagara's Baco Noir specialist. Not only are they a consistent producer of quality varietal Baco in the region—they actually produce three distinct releases of the varietal wine, all with slightly different oak aging regimens and fruit sourced from vines of different ages.<br />
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In reserve for today's New Year tasting is the Speck Family Reserve. It's the only one that I hadn't tasted up to now. It retails for $25 at Vintages and is available at select stores only.<br />
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This wine hails from the winery's original planting of Baco, dating back to 1984. That's interesting, because it means that the vines predate the whole VQA system under which the wine bears a "VQA Ontario" designation. Even though the wine technically hails from the Short Hills Bench appellation, VQA does not deem hybrids worthy of appellation-specific nomenclature—<i>an absurdity</i>, <a href="http://www.lcbo.com/lcbo/product/henry-of-pelham-speck-family-reserve-baco-noir-2015/461699#.Wkq1Uikmx8E" target="_blank">as wine writer David Lawrason rightly pointed out in his write-up on the wine</a>.<br />
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The bottle is closed with an elegant, solid, top quality natural cork. The cork showed deep purple-black staining once pulled out, though only where it had been in contact with the wine, indicating a good seal.<br />
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The wine poured with a gorgeous, saturated black, cherry-mahogany hue which, in the glass, morphs into a weathered-sumac hue at the meniscus. At 13.5% alc./vol., good tear development can be seen along the inside of the glass (and is even visible in the picture at right).<br />
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The nose is deeply oaky, with big, bold, black-cherry fruit and prominent wood vanillins from the American oak. There is lengthy integration of bold oak and fruit. On the palate, lithe, bright acidity leads the way; the texture is dry and cleansing along the mid-palate and energetically lively into the finish. The flavours finish out with beets, red currants, a hint of dried tomatoes and just a tap of oak at the end.<br />
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Very well done, but bold and oaky in style. If you prefer less oak, try the winery's Old Vines release.<br />
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Happy New Year!Paul Bulashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12529246329390414743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5220015858156703113.post-52758673364645999572016-12-11T17:38:00.000-05:002016-12-11T17:44:42.992-05:002014 Georgian Hills Maréchal Foch (Ontario VQA)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I had wanted to try this Foch for a long time, given that it comes from a "non-traditional" wine growing region in Ontario: the southern shore of Georgian Bay. That, plus the fact that I'm a fan of the Maréchal Foch grape, made this a "must get" wine.<br />
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Varietal Foch was easy to find in Ontario up to and just past the turn of the millennium; slowly afterwards, though, it began to disappear from the winescape. For this reason, I am always excited to find new examples of varietal Foch, as this is a grape which deserves more respect for the heft of the red wines that it can produce in climates with short growing seasons and occasionally harsh winters.<br />
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The Georgian Hills Foch is closed with a natural cork; upon pulling out the cork, I noted lots of inky-purple saturation on the end of the cork (a signature sign of many red-hybrid wines) and also noted some tartrate crystals intermixed with the pigment.<br />
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The wine pours with a deep, saturated, black/cherry hue. In the glass, hue is an intense but translucent black/cherry/garnet when held against a light. Foch is a <i>teinturier</i> grape—one that has pigmented skins <i>and</i> pulp, and therefore, it makes a wine of great visual intensity.<br />
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The aromas are of light black cherry; they are simple, and not as layered as the much missed, oak-aged Niagara Peninsula Fochs tended to be (and as the Vieni Reserve from Niagara still is). That said, the cherry fruitiness is inviting.<br />
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Bright acidity and light but good tannins arrive on the entry. The wine is dry and pleasant on the mid-palate, and at 12.5%, it is gently warming. Very good structure on the mid-palate, without the zinginess that many a Baco Noir has. I've always thought that Foch was the more interesting of these two grapes (both were common in Ontario, but Baco is still more widely produced today).<br />
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$14.95 at the LCBO; available at stores mainly near its area of origin.Paul Bulashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12529246329390414743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5220015858156703113.post-15241142923039346602016-12-03T16:00:00.002-05:002016-12-03T16:04:32.057-05:002012 Leelanau Cellars Baco Noir (Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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While in Michigan I picked up this varietal Baco Noir which hails from the Leelanau Peninsula. On the label it says, "A Taste of Northern Michigan"—very nice.<br />
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I had previously never tried Baco from such a northerly location, being instead more accustomed to those produced in Southern Ontario.<br />
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The wine is of a medium-ruby hue; quite translucent in the bottle. In the glass, it shows typical Baco saturation, and seems a darker shade of garnet.<br />
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Aromatically, it is unlike most Ontario Bacos, showing a bright red-berry fruitiness that reminds me of a few Bardolinos that I've tried over the years. On the entry, the wine is tart and lively in a rounded way (a Baco trait for sure), and has good warmth as well, clocking in at 12.55% alc./vol. The finish is fresh and palate-invigorating.<br />
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A good wine. I got it for USD $15 and would buy it again.Paul Bulashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12529246329390414743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5220015858156703113.post-73465544837767197072016-05-29T16:02:00.001-04:002016-05-29T16:07:18.637-04:002013 Magnotta Dry Vidal Equus Series (Ontario VQA)I remember enjoying this wine tremendously many years ago. I'm happy to say that Magnotta's dry Vidal, while having undergone a name and label change since the early days, is as fine a wine as I remember it.<br />
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In fact, I love dry Vidal table wine so much that the background on my blog is a photo of Vidal grapes growing in Niagara wine country. Vidal is one of Ontario's most versatile wine grapes.<br />
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12.8% alc./vol. Clear, medium-straw/yellow hue in the glass. Wonderful aromas of lemon candy, pineapple, pine needles and guava. Crisp and focused on the entry, with that lively and lovely varietal acidity; a warm but balanced texture; and a palate-cleansing, fully dry finish that I appreciate.<br />
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Magnotta's retail outlet is a fine place to visit and the prices are right. I have long believed that Magnotta makes Ontario's best dry Vidal table wine... I still believe it, having tasted this version.<br />
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$7.45 for a 750 ml bottle, and worth every penny.Paul Bulashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12529246329390414743noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5220015858156703113.post-7895448982260271782016-01-09T19:44:00.000-05:002016-01-10T11:00:52.724-05:002012 Vieni Estates Briganti (Ontario VQA)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I was delighted to recently find this wine on general list in the LCBO. Vieni Estates' Briganti is a three-way blend of <i>Foch, Baco and De Chaunac</i>—at one time, three of the most common red hybrid grapes in Ontario.<br />
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You just don't see much innovation in this category of wine anymore. Up to the turn of the millennium, there were quite a few very good varietal Fochs, and even a few varietal De Chaunacs. This release seems to represent something of a rebirth for the genre, and I couldn't be happier. Having tried Vieni's excellent <a href="http://hybridwines.blogspot.ca/2015/12/vieni-2012-foch-vintage-reserve-ontario.html" target="_blank">Foch Vintage Reserve</a> last month, I was excited to see this release from the same winery.<br />
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The wine is bottled in a smart, screw-top bottle. It pours with a saturated, deep garnet colour that fades to a cherry-garnet hue at the meniscus. Baco Noir seems to lead on the nose, with briny, plummy fruit and some complex rootsy notes that are typical of many wines with <i>V. riparia</i> lineage. On the palate, there is brisk, clean acidity and very good texture; the wine is dry and cleansing. On the mid-palate, I seem to get more of the Foch notes, but in general, no single grape dominates. The finish is dry and clean—this is a wine made for the dinner table. It is well balanced at 12.0% alc./vol.<br />
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For stylistic comparison to other wines—think of a brisk northern Italian red like Barbera.<br />
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My food pairings would be lasagna, ribs, and pizza. The wine has the acidity and heft to invigorate and refresh the palate.<br />
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My only suggestion would be to give this wine some time in oak: even just 6-8 months in American (or Canadian!) oak would be sufficient. Aged this way, it would be very reminiscent of the excellent Harrow Estates Baco that Carlo Negri used to make in the late 1990s.<br />
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This Vieni Estates Briganti is a very welcome addition to Ontario's winescape. It is $12.95 on general list in the Ontario VQA section of the LCBO.Paul Bulashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12529246329390414743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5220015858156703113.post-76561212651842574682015-12-19T22:39:00.003-05:002020-10-03T11:41:01.157-04:00Vieni Estates 2012 Foch Vintage Reserve (Ontario VQA)<div style="text-align: right;">
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I was impressed to find this fine Ontario Foch at Vintages recently. Truth be told, it sort of flew over my radar, having been released this past summer.<br />
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The wine pours with a beautiful, and typical, saturated deep-garnet colour that fades to a "weathered sumac" black-mahogany hue at the meniscus. It opens up in the glass with wonderful, big, quality aromatic oak aromas. Mingling with that, there are tart black currant and blue plum aromas. Aromatically, this reminds me of the many reserve Fochs that graced the Ontario wine scene right up to Y2K.<br />
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On the palate, there is tart, lithe acidity and a clean, dry, palate-cleansing texture that carries the fruit and oak aromas right across it — with power, lightness, and elegance, all at the same time. This is classic Ontario Foch.<br />
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The finish is dry and elegant, with replays of the same aromatic compounds.<br />
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It is a shame that so many excellent examples of varietal Maréchal Foch have disappeared from the Ontario wine scene over the past decade. For this reason, it is a joy to find a winery producing a treat like this, from a grape that deserves much more respect in this part of the world for climatic suitability and innate quality characteristics.<br />
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The wine retails for less than $20 and is 14% alc./vol.Paul Bulashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12529246329390414743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5220015858156703113.post-43443404493048596162015-09-27T18:05:00.000-04:002015-12-19T23:07:15.690-05:002014 Peller Estates Baco Noir (Ontario VQA)This is one of the best Bacos in Ontario: it is always fairly priced and done well.<br />
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Deep ruby-black with a ruby-magenta meniscus. Aromas of sweet plummy fruit and wild <i>V. riparia</i> grapiness. Mouth-filling, with bright, tense acidity and great structure. 2014 wasn't a great vintage for reds in Ontario, but Baco and its other <i>V. riparia</i>-derived brethren typically manage to shine, despite such obstacles.<br />
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Invigorating, palate-enlivening mouth feel, coupled with a dash of balancing residual sweetness and typical diminutive tannins.<br />
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The finish is clean and lean, and it leaves your palate refreshed.<br />
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12% alc./vol. Screw cap closure. $11.95 on general list at the LCBO.Paul Bulashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12529246329390414743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5220015858156703113.post-1049736585078534962015-09-11T22:19:00.002-04:002015-12-19T23:07:31.490-05:002014 No. 99 Wayne Gretzky Estates Baco Noir (VQA Ontario)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The Great One knows a great grape.<br />
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12.5% alc./vol. The wine pours with a deep scarlet-ruby hue and dense but translucent saturation. Superb, briny, plummy / V. riparia varietal Baco nose, with lively, tart red currant fruit.<br />
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Bright, refreshing tartness on the entry. Zingy, tight entry, with good focus and a firm backbone. The wine is, much like Barbera, a great palate cleanser. It would go superbly well with ribs, steak, pizza and any pasta-and-tomato-sauce combination. A natural match with any of these.<br />
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$15.95. Limited distribution at the LCBO.Paul Bulashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12529246329390414743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5220015858156703113.post-80786481050588875712015-09-07T19:18:00.000-04:002015-09-07T19:20:27.989-04:002013 St. Julian Reserve Traminette (Lake Michigan Shore)A wonderful white wine from Michigan. It pours with a clear, pale straw colour. 12% alc./vol. The nose has the typical spicy/rosewater nose of Gewürztraminer, with a hint of the aromas typical of Riesling and Vidal—though this is <a href="http://www.hort.cornell.edu/reisch/grapegenetics/Traminette.pdf" target="_blank">varietal Traminette</a>.<br />
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A bright, lemony acidity sweeps the palate, fanning out to reveal lemony, floral fruit and a balancing residual sweetness. There's lots of floral flavour in this wonderful Michigan wine. Crisp and off-dry, it works both as a standalone sipper and with food.<br />
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It went well with herbed, grilled chicken breast. A good buy, and a good representation of the Traminette grape.Paul Bulashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12529246329390414743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5220015858156703113.post-35001235088587934322014-05-30T21:12:00.003-04:002016-06-04T18:11:30.705-04:002013 Peller Estates Baco Noir (Ontario VQA)The 2013 Peller Estates Baco Noir pours with a deep, dark garnet core that turns bright ruby at the meniscus.<br />
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The bouquet shows fantastic aromas of plums, prunes and brackish, wild, <i>Vitis riparia</i>. The texture has a bright, clean, crisp, invigorating and tart entry with tart blue plum flavours that fan across the palate. There's excellent fruitiness.<br />
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The texture is warm, balanced, clean and cleansing, with acidity leading and tannin playing back-up.<br />
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The finish is crisp all the way across the palate, with a clean and bright personality. There's prune jam and tartness on the finish.<br />
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This Baco has 12.5% alc./vol. It costs $10.95 and can be found on regular list at the LCBO. It's bottled with a screwcap closure.<br />
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An excellent, clean Baco...at an exemplary price!!Paul Bulashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12529246329390414743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5220015858156703113.post-4123179403124745382014-05-04T18:35:00.001-04:002015-12-19T23:08:08.224-05:002010 Frogpond Farm Organic Winery Chambourcin (Ontario VQA)<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPkD5fqHRxASTtPURWJvZaBG7AG3_gb4uPaxbUy-oacfLD8bDIIRTL00GCcmB5c8u6WGz1XNSNxi-3bnTeO0oKDkJozTUesHYiRl1KYPKSe2UHxsX9mpiM2lINAWrP_8RuqsrmRlC5R1M/s1600/FrogpondChambourcin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a>Varietal <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chambourcin" target="_blank">Chambourcin</a> is rare in Ontario - so when this wine caught my eye recently, I knew that I just had to give it a try. Not only is it one of the few examples of this variety in Ontario, but the wine is also organic - always a good thing.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPkD5fqHRxASTtPURWJvZaBG7AG3_gb4uPaxbUy-oacfLD8bDIIRTL00GCcmB5c8u6WGz1XNSNxi-3bnTeO0oKDkJozTUesHYiRl1KYPKSe2UHxsX9mpiM2lINAWrP_8RuqsrmRlC5R1M/s1600/FrogpondChambourcin.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPkD5fqHRxASTtPURWJvZaBG7AG3_gb4uPaxbUy-oacfLD8bDIIRTL00GCcmB5c8u6WGz1XNSNxi-3bnTeO0oKDkJozTUesHYiRl1KYPKSe2UHxsX9mpiM2lINAWrP_8RuqsrmRlC5R1M/s1600/FrogpondChambourcin.jpg" width="102" /></a>The wine pours with a beautiful, clear dark ruby colour; it is translucent yet has a dark tone all the same. The nose is very light; just some red currant and possibly some light cherry fruit. I pick up no oak on the nose at all; a pity, as I think that this wine would have benefited immensely from some oak aging.<br />
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On the entry, the Chambourcin is light and tart with brisk yet well-apportioned acidity. It's quite palate-cleansing, much like its other hybrid cousins (e.g. Baco and Foch - though Baco tends to be quite a bit more tart). The mid-palate is mildly warm (12.4% alc./vol.), acid-driven and cleansing. The finish is light and short.<br />
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If you were to compare this to a vinifera wine, Barbera or Chianti would be fair benchmarks.<br />
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I do think that this wine would have benefited from 8-10 months of oak contact - even if it meant using oak chips instead of barrels. The oak vanillins would add a welcome extra dimension to the whole package.<br />
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Even so, I am delighted to have discovered this wine. It will be on my "watch for" list from now on.<br />
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It retails for $14 at the LCBO.Paul Bulashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12529246329390414743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5220015858156703113.post-72894793470498278822014-04-13T18:18:00.000-04:002014-04-14T21:37:22.527-04:002010 Sue Ann Staff Baco Noir (Ontario VQA)This is a relatively new Baco in Ontario's wine scene. It hails from the Jordan area in the Niagara Peninsula.<br />
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Screwcap closure; a light, 10.8% alc./vol.<br />
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The Baco pours with a clear, dark ruby colour and a black-cherry hue; it is translucent at the core and pinkish-ruby at the meniscus, with decent tears.<br />
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Swirling brings out pleasantly brackish, funky <i>V. riparia</i> aromas that waft about on the nose (and that are interestingly reminiscent of <a href="https://wine.appellationamerica.com/grape-varietal/Norton-|-Cynthiana.html" target="_blank">Cynthiana</a>).<br />
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There's the lithe, tart acidity, that is so very typical of Baco; but even with that and the low alcohol, there is good balance. The mouth feel is invigorating and zingy.<br />
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Sour-cherry fruit wraps up the finish, with additional brackish replays.<br />
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$14.95 on general list at the LCBO - the same price as Henry of Pelham's Baco.Paul Bulashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12529246329390414743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5220015858156703113.post-43289983772747432262014-01-11T16:42:00.000-05:002017-02-18T21:00:48.906-05:00New-Generation Cold-Climate Wines at Hoity Toity CellarsIn the autumn of 2013, I visited <a href="http://www.hoitytoitycellars.ca/" target="_blank">Hoity Toity Cellars</a>, located near Mildmay, in Ontario's Bruce County. I had been interested in the winery for some time because they are growing some newer-generation hybrid grapes, such as: Louise Swenson, Frontenac, Frontenac Gris and Marquette.<br />
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The last time I had tried any of these wines was years ago - and in fact I had never tried Frontenac Gris before at all - so I was quite interested in learning more about the winery and these thoroughly modern wines. The new-generation hybrids are particularly interesting to study as they are enabling viticulture in parts of Canada where it had been limited or not practiced at all. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSZzvcNMJduExVwpe5zTLJ2LQZdBAUFH1BjGV5nSplxEiMlqU3Rx0VT8PpEfQev6zlgcd89gf27WTu2nUwo2nWg9cFg1JvhaWfUnkkJrun0gbGYsdgK_UVXJiSPd9_I8oBXtKVo65TdSQ/s1600/HoityToity2011COMMHAR.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSZzvcNMJduExVwpe5zTLJ2LQZdBAUFH1BjGV5nSplxEiMlqU3Rx0VT8PpEfQev6zlgcd89gf27WTu2nUwo2nWg9cFg1JvhaWfUnkkJrun0gbGYsdgK_UVXJiSPd9_I8oBXtKVo65TdSQ/s1600/HoityToity2011COMMHAR.jpg" width="51" /></a> The <b>2011 Community Harvest (Frontenac)</b>
is the first straight Ontario Frontenac that I have ever tasted.
Previously, I had only tasted one other Frontenac - grown in Minnesota -
at a wine tasting in Michigan, in 2004.<br />
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The wine pours with a deep and dark ruby colour, with
dense black-cherry highlights near the edge of the glass. It's a dark
red wine, but is not inky in the way that the more common hybrids Baco and Foch can be.<br />
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Swirling
brings out a very distinct candied-cherry nose - something that
immediately reminds me of the aforementioned Minnesota-grown Frontenac.
There are some minor rootsy hints in the nose as well. The acidity is
much like that of Baco Noir: light, lithe and tart. On the entry, the
acidity is immediately balanced by a touch of residual sweetness, but
remains zingy and lively across the mid-palate. More candied cherry
emerges there and is met by a fine-grained, light, tannic overlay. The
mouthfeel is invigorating, tart and cleansing. At 12.1% alc./vol., there
is just a slight warming aspect to the finish. The aftertaste is fruity
and tangy.<br />
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This sort of lively, light, fruity texture seems to characterize varietal Frontenac. <br />
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$16; purchased at the winery. <br />
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The <b>2011 Kicked Out of the Country Club (Marquette)</b> is the first straight Ontario-grown Marquette that I have ever tasted. Marquette is a new-generation red hybrid out of Minnesota.<br />
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The wine pours with a deep scarlet-garnet colour that lightens to a beautiful deep ruby at the edges of the glass. Aromas of pin cherries and spicy oak on the nose, with a hint of raspberry. Crisp texture, with mouthwatering acidity and spicy oak replays that carry through to the mid-palate. At this point, there is a very pleasant overlay of grainy tannin, adding a most pleasant structural element to the wine. The bright cherry flavours re-emerge on the finish, and are wrapped up in another subtle wave of spicy French oak. 10.8% alc./vol.<br />
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$20; purchased at the winery. <br />
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The <b>2012 Kicked Out of the Country Club (Marquette)</b> pours with a black-magenta hue with deep-ruby highlights. Initially, some effervescence clings to the inside of the glass. <br />
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Aromas of candied cherry and some woodsy notes emerge from the bouquet, with hints of oak spice - an appealing bouquet. Good texture on the entry, with brisk, bright acidity, an overlay of firm tannin, and good warmth wrapping up the finish. More cherry flavours come in on the finish, and linger nicely as the finish fades.<br />
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This wine should be opened and decanted for a few hours to integrate. A very good, and promising, example of what Marquette can do in Ontario.<br />
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Disclaimer: I was given this bottle at the winery to review. <br />
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The <b>2012 Dusty White Glove (Frontenac Gris)</b> was a new experience. I had never tried a wine made from Frontenac Gris before, due to its relative scarcity in Ontario. Frontenac Gris is a light-skinned mutation of the regular Frontenac grape. It may help to think of the relationship between the two varieties as akin to that between Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. <br />
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The wine pours with a light, pale cantaloupe hue. Aromas of sweet pineapple, honeydew melon and peach emerge with swirling. There is a nice amount of effervescence on the inside of the glass as well.<br />
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This Frontenac Gris is great as an aperitif, but I am already thinking that it would go well with game bird (quail, pheasant) as it seems to have a certain heft despite its colour.<br />
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Pineapple flavours fan out across the palate, and the slight effervescence together with a balancing touch of residual sweetness, add a fine textural appeal. Clean, fruity and brisk on the finish. Very good.<br />
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$16; purchased at the winery.<br />
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Finally, a couple of cider notes. Although I dedicate this blog exclusively to hybrid grapes and their wines, I was also interested in the Hoity Toity ciders during my visit. They, too, are an interesting part of the winery's product line.<br />
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The <b>Hoity Toity Cellars "Rusty Bling" Hard Cider</b>, aptly named, has a rusty-copper colour with an orange-pink glint. It has a fine effervescence when poured and looks pretty and distinctive in the glass.<br />
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Although a fine aroma of Dolgo crab apples opens up on the nose, the acidity is not like that of Dolgo crabs but is actually tame and gentle on the palate. There is a welcome touch of crab apple tannin on the mid-palate, adding a lovely texture. The taste includes a bit of marmalade-like, orange-skin astringency on the mid-palate. That said, the cider isn't particularly sweet. At 7.2% alc./vol., there is a gentle warmth to the finish, which is clean and subtle.<br />
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Rusty Bling shows how tannic apples (in this case, crab apples) can help to create a cider with considerable structure. Rusty Bling works well with food: poultry or game birds would be a fine match.<br />
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$14; purchased at the winery.<br />
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The <b>Hoity Toity Cellars "66 Pickup" Hard Cider</b> is clearly made from different apples than the Rusty Bling. It has a pale, clear straw hue and looks bright and refreshing already in the bottle.<br />
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Clean, bright apple aromas emerge from the nose, and the cider is crisp and dry. It is very much a "champagne-style" cider, and there is not the sort of discernible tannic grip that is very evident in the intriguing Rusty Bling, with its crab apple influence.<br />
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You could drink this cider in place of a sparkling wine, or even a white wine - though I think cider is its own thing and as such, can easily guide a food choice, just as wine can be used to select an appropriate meal type. <br />
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Disclaimer: I was given this bottle at the winery to review.<br />
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I enjoyed my visit to Hoity Toity Cellars. Congratulations
to the owner and staff for putting new-generation hybrid wines on
Ontario's viticultural map.Paul Bulashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12529246329390414743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5220015858156703113.post-71753882854462516582013-11-24T17:55:00.001-05:002013-11-24T20:31:25.882-05:002012 Villa Nova Estate Aenigma<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I recently visited <a href="http://www.villanovaestatewinery.ca/index.htm" target="_blank">Villa Nova Estate Winery</a>, located in Ontario's Norfolk County. I had read about their wines online and wanted to try them - especially the Aenigma, which is a blend of Regent, Frontenac, and Cab Sauvignon.<br />
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Previous to this, I don't ever recall seeing a wine for sale in Ontario made using the Regent variety. Regent was created in Germany in 1967 by crossing Diana (Silvaner x Müller Thurgau) and Chambourcin (see <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Regent_(grape)" target="_blank">here</a> for more information). This is a very welcome addition to the wine scene in Ontario.<br />
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The 2012 Aenigma is interesting not just for the blend of grapes it consists of, but also for the fact that it is finished with Ontario white oak - something that is still a rarity here. I heartily applaud this decision to use locally sourced oak, both for the unique flavour profile and for the regional authenticity.<br />
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Aenigma pours with a beautiful, dense garnet colour that turns to deep magenta at the rim of the glass. Obviously, Regent has inherited the amazing pigmentation of other <i>V. riparia</i>-based hybrids. Fruity, spicy oak hints mingle with pepper-infused black cherry notes to create a very elegant bouquet. Moderate acidity leads the way, with a beautifully dry mid-palate on which superb puckery tannins flesh out broadly. Subtle oak-spice replays fan out at this point and linger prominently into the dry, tasty finish. The wine is 14% alc./vol. but everything is so well balanced that the finish displays just a gentle warmth.<br />
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This is a most excellent wine - one that I will be proud to serve on my dinner table in the future. An excellent blend with character, quality and structure. Once again - if you need a vinifera equivalent to gauge the style, think of the Chianti Classico style.<br />
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I would also add that this wine has clearly convinced me that Regent deserves a prominent place in Ontario's winescape: it produces an excellent red wine.<br />
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$14.50 per 750 ml bottle. Available at the winery only.Paul Bulashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12529246329390414743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5220015858156703113.post-4925319420687211172013-11-16T22:06:00.001-05:002013-11-16T22:06:15.238-05:002011 Coffin Ridge "Back From the Dead Red" (Ontario VQA)<div id="yiv7555138464yui_3_13_0_1_1384638920913_6610" style="font-family: HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif; font-size: 15.555556297302246px;">
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<span style="font-size: 15.555556297302246px;">According to the back label, this Foch-based blend consists of </span><span id="yui_3_13_0_6_1384656580636_21" style="font-size: 12pt;">78.5% </span><span id="yui_3_13_0_1_1384656580636_2907" style="font-size: 12pt;">Foch,</span><span id="yui_3_13_0_1_1384656580636_2909" style="font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span id="yui_3_13_0_6_1384656580636_25" style="font-size: 12pt;">12.3%</span><span id="yui_3_13_0_1_1384656580636_2910" style="font-size: 12pt;"> Merlot and</span><span style="font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span id="yui_3_13_0_6_1384656580636_29" style="font-size: 12pt;">9.2%</span><span id="yui_3_13_0_6_1384656580636_32" style="font-size: 12pt;"> Cabernet (type not specified). </span><span id="yui_3_13_0_6_1384656580636_47" style="font-size: 12pt;">The bottle is closed with a h</span><span id="yui_3_13_0_1_1384656580636_2912" style="font-size: 12pt;">igh-quality natural cork. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 15.555556297302246px;">This Foch-based wine pours with a beautiful, inky beet-purple colour that is so typical of the grape. The nose of the wine is representative of Foch, with intense, spicy black-cherry, pinpoint blackcurrant and intriguing brackish </span><span style="font-size: 15.555556297302246px;">aromas that speak to the </span><span id="yui_3_13_0_6_1384656580636_55" style="font-size: 15.555556297302246px; font-style: italic;">V. ripari</span><span id="yui_3_13_0_6_1384656580636_60" style="font-size: 15.555556297302246px; font-style: italic;">a</span><span style="font-size: 15.555556297302246px;"> </span><span style="font-size: 15.555556297302246px;">heritage </span><span style="font-size: 15.555556297302246px;">of Foch.</span></div>
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There's zippy acidity on the entry, with expansive cherry and classic herbaceous flavours across the palate. On the mid-palate, a nice streak of tannin is noted, and this is likely provided by the Merlot and Cabernet component. The finish is zippy, but nicely balanced (12.5% alc./vol.). <span style="font-size: 15.555556297302246px;">The wine has a superb blackcurrant bouquet, is quite dry, and is both flavourful and cleansing.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 15.555556297302246px;">The blackcurrant aromas remind me of the Old Vines Foch that Inniskillin used to make in the 1990s: the very wine that turned me on to Ontario red hybrid wines.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 15.555556297302246px;">A recommended, characterful red wine from Grey County.</span><br />
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The wine is available at Vintages at the time of writing (search for local availability via the LCBO Product ID: <a href="http://www.lcbo.com/lcbo-ear/lcbo/product/inventory/searchResults.do?language=EN&itemNumber=260463" target="_blank">260463</a>). The wine sells for $17.</div>
Paul Bulashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12529246329390414743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5220015858156703113.post-9962403748937931922013-11-11T20:17:00.000-05:002013-11-13T08:53:37.776-05:002012 Konzelmann Baco Noir (Ontario VQA)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: 15.555556297302246px;">Konzelmann's 2012 Baco Noir pours with a black-garnet colour that fades to magenta near the rim of the glass. There's great colour in this Baco, as in virtually all Bacos. As with most reds, this wine needs some decanting to come into its own - and it actually integrated really well within a day of being opened.</span></div>
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On the nose are aromas of plum, and a briny, bacon-like note that makes me think of Syrah; there are also hints of fine brackish scents from the grape's <i>Vitis riparia</i> lineage.</div>
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On the entry there is light acidity that is quite mellow for a Baco. It's a good thing, as the wine shows exemplary balance. A nice overlay of fine-grained tannin covers the palate and is followed by moderate warmth (12% alc./vol.), leading to a pleasant finish.</div>
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The wine is said to be slightly oaked, but I think that more overt oak would do the wine very well. Baco handles oak very well, and the oak adds not only wood tannins but additional olfactory and gustatory layers.</div>
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Konzelmann's Baco is bottled in a one-litre size and is available at the winery only, for $11.95.</div>
Paul Bulashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12529246329390414743noreply@blogger.com0