Wednesday, October 12, 2011

2009 Malivoire "Albert's Honour" Old Vines Foch (Ontario VQA)

A long-time favourite of mine, since its initial release in the 1998 vintage.

Vineyard established in 1975. Solid, high-quality natural cork closure. 12.5% alc./vol.

Intense, saturated black/cherry-red hue, with a ruby/magenta meniscus. Beautiful, nearly viscous appearance in the glass; the dark colour and light-purple legs make for great visuals. Expansive bramble-type fruit, framed by tightly-wound oak spice; secondary hints of its V. riparia parentage, via myriad brackish/wild/marshy/celeriac aromas. Plummy replays. Tart entry, with lively acidity, a firm but light structure, and good warmth on the finish. Flavours carry through onto the mid-palate. Cleansing, tasty, bright-on-the-palate, dark-coloured red wine.

If you must compare this to something from the vinifera world, think northern Italy: e.g. a laser-crisp Barbera, but with a much darker colour.

As usual, give it some time in the open bottle before drinking - or better yet, decant it: the bouquet will open up very nicely.

2009 was not a notable vintage in Ontario; it was actually quite a weak vintage. But I love trying red hybrid wines from such years, because I get to see what grapes that fit the climate can produce under less than favourable conditions. I'm already looking forward to trying the 2010 version of this classic Ontarian red.

2 comments:

  1. Of course the sneaky thing about this, and HoP's baco is that they have significant %s of vinifera blended in to add 'stuffing'....

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  2. I'm aware that the '98 vintage was 8% Cab Franc. In later years, I think they used Gamay, if I'm not mistaken... But the latest ones don't state what, if anything, they blend in.

    Personally, I prefer just plain Foch, and take it for what it is. But there are other new-generation hybrids, such as Noiret and Marquette, that already have significant tannins of their own. Frankly, I would love to see more Ontario wineries considering these varieties.

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